Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Paisano's Pillar


After a prolonged stretch of R & R, Justin Merle, Pat Ormond and I made the drive from Seattle back to the Washington Pass area for a day of climbing. We decided on a climb of Paisano's Pillar which is a sub-peak of Silver Star Mtn. and part of the popular wine spires just east of Washington Pass. The area is known for it's high quality rock and good selection of technical climbs to the various summits that make up Silver Star and the Vasilliki Ridge.

(View of the Liberty Bell Peaks from Silver Star Mtn.)

The approach to this area was, for lack of a better word, brutal. Pretty much straight uphill for approximately 3500'. It was a good way to get the heart rate up and test out my ankle. Over the weekend I gave the akle plenty of rest, ice, and ibuprofen. I also went out and purchased an ankle brace. I prefer the ankle brace over tape because it is easy to put on and take off, and is adjustable throughout the day. Overall, I felt OK with the ankle but I'm definitely favoring the injury a bit. I've opted to hike with 2 poles instead of 1 to facilitate travel on rough trails and surfaces.

(Climbing the 5.8 twin cracks on Paisano's Pillar)

We finally found the base of the route and began climbing. It was noticeably colder today, and we were all happy that only the first pitch of the climb was in the shade. All of us were blowing on our hands to try and keep the digits warm so that we could feel the rock. Most of the peaks in the range were dusted with snow from the previous weekend's storm. Fall has officially arrived in the North Cascades.

(High on the route. Check out the sweet crack in the corner!)



The climbing on Paisano's was very enjoyable, and generally clean rock typified the route. Some tricky route finding and guiding though kept things interesting on the climb, which was rated 5.8. I led the entire route, mock guiding both Justin and Pat to practice some specific guiding techniques and get in the right mindset for the exam. We summited the pillar and descended back to the car without incident.

(Topping out on Paisano's Pillar)

Our next objective is some reconnaissance on Mt. Baker, though the weather looks poor for wednesday. Thursday on looks much better so we're planning for a couple of days on the N. side of Baker. Only 1 week left until the start of the exam. Stay tuned!

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